Odigitria

Odigitria tickets: which one to buy

The Monastery of Odigitria stands in the Asterousia Mountains in south-central Crete, about seventy kilometres south of Heraklion, near the villages of Sivas and Listaros and not far from the Messara plain and the ancient site of Phaistos, and entry is free, with donations welcome. It is a remote, fortified monastery, visited by fewer tourists than the monasteries of northern Crete. A car is needed to reach it, and the last part of the road is narrow.

Visitors often combine the monastery with Phaistos and Gortyna, the Minoan and Roman sites of the Messara, the beach town of Matala, and the walk through the Martsalo gorge down to the sea near Kali Limenes. The monastery is active, with a small community, and visitors should dress modestly. The surrounding landscape is wild and rocky, with views towards the Libyan Sea. Heraklion is about an hour and a half away by car, and the drive passes through villages.

Visiting Odigitria: what to see

The monastery is dedicated to the Virgin Odigitria, the Virgin who shows the way, and it dates back at least to the fifteenth century, although tradition places its origins earlier. Like many Cretan monasteries, it was built to defend itself against raids, with thick walls and a fortified tower, known as the tower of Xopateras, named after a monk who, according to local tradition, fought against the Ottomans from the tower during the Cretan struggles for freedom. The monastery played a part in the resistance during the Ottoman period and later during the Second World War. The church holds old icons and a carved iconostasis, and the monastery buildings include cells, a refectory and storerooms around a courtyard. The monks have restored the complex and cultivate the land, producing olive oil and other products.

The tower and walls give the monastery the appearance of a small castle in the mountains. The church's frescoes are faded, but some images of saints can still be seen. The courtyard's walls enclose a small garden with flowers and trees. The monastery's old olive press and wine press are displayed in storerooms. The tower, with its thick walls and narrow windows, can sometimes be visited, and it offers views over the mountains and the Messara plain. The monks welcome visitors, and they may offer water or raki. The monastery's small shop sells honey, olive oil and icons. The path from the monastery leads to the Martsalo gorge, where hermits once lived in caves. The gorge descends towards the Libyan Sea, and walkers reach the coast in about two hours. The landscape around the monastery is covered with thyme and wild herbs. Goats graze on the rocky slopes.

Odigitria opening hours and the best time to go

The monastery is open during the day, and visiting hours are not always fixed. Summer is very hot in southern Crete, and early morning or late afternoon visits are the most comfortable. Spring, when the mountains are green and wildflowers bloom, and autumn are the best seasons, especially for walking in the Martsalo gorge. The monastery's feast day on 15 August, the Dormition, brings pilgrims. Allow about half an hour for the monastery, and combine it with Phaistos and a swim at Matala. Bring water and good shoes if you plan to walk in the Martsalo gorge.