Iglesia de La Merced, Antigua Guatemala

Iglesia de La Merced, Antigua Guatemala tickets: which one to buy

La Merced stands at the northern end of Antigua Guatemala's historic centre, a few blocks from the Santa Catalina arch, and its bright yellow facade is one of the most photographed buildings in the city. Entry to the church is free; the ruins of the adjoining convent, with its courtyard and enormous fountain, are open for a small fee. Walking tours of Antigua always include La Merced along with the arch, the cathedral, the central park and the ruins of other colonial churches destroyed by earthquakes, and they are the best way to understand the city's history.

Tours to the volcanoes, coffee farms and villages around Antigua usually begin or end in the centre. Antigua is about an hour from Guatemala City's airport. The streets are cobbled and uneven, so comfortable shoes are important. The church is active, and visiting pauses during mass. Guides licensed by the tourism authority wear identification badges and charge set rates.

Visiting Iglesia de La Merced, Antigua Guatemala: what to see

The Mercedarian friars came to Guatemala in the sixteenth century, and the present church was completed in 1767, after earlier buildings were destroyed by earthquakes. Its builders designed it to survive: the walls are very thick, the towers low and squat, and the whole structure broad and heavy. That is why La Merced came through the great earthquake of 1773, which ruined much of the city. The facade is covered in delicate white stucco decoration in the style known as ataurique, lacy patterns of vines and leaves standing out against the yellow walls.

Inside, the church has gilded altarpieces and statues, including the venerated image of Jesus of Nazareth. The convent next door is in ruins, but its cloister holds a great stone fountain, one of the largest in Central America, once used to raise fish, with the volcano of Agua rising in the distance. The towers carry bells that were recast after earthquakes, and one still rings for mass each morning.

Iglesia de La Merced, Antigua Guatemala opening hours and the best time to go

The dry season from November to April is the best time to visit Antigua; the rainy season brings afternoon showers but green landscapes. Holy Week is the great event of the year: La Merced's brotherhood carries its image of Jesus of Nazareth through the streets in enormous processions, and the streets are covered with carpets made of coloured sawdust, flowers and pine needles.

The city is packed and accommodation must be booked months ahead. Lent also brings processions on Sundays. Morning light is best on the facade. The church is open daily outside service times. Allow half an hour for the church and the convent ruins, and walk to the Santa Catalina arch for the classic view. Chicken buses to the villages around Antigua leave from the market a few blocks west.