Trani Cathedral

Trani Cathedral tickets: which one to buy

Trani Cathedral, the Cathedral of San Nicola Pellegrino, stands on an open square at the edge of the sea in the harbour town of Trani, in Apulia, southern Italy, about forty kilometres north-west of Bari, and entry is free, while the bell tower and the crypts may require a small ticket. Its pale limestone walls, rising directly above the water, make it one of the most striking cathedrals in Italy and a masterpiece of Apulian Romanesque architecture. Trani is about half an hour from Bari by train, and the cathedral is about fifteen minutes' walk from the station through the old town.

Visitors often combine the cathedral with the Swabian Castle of Frederick II beside the sea, the harbour lined with fishing boats and seafood restaurants, the Jewish quarter with its medieval synagogues, and a trip to Castel del Monte, the octagonal castle of Frederick II, about forty minutes inland. The cathedral is popular for weddings, and visiting pauses during services and ceremonies. The square around the cathedral is open to the sea, and it is a favourite place for evening walks. Sunsets over the water bring out the warm colour of the stone.

Visiting Trani Cathedral: what to see

The cathedral was begun in 1099 to house the relics of Saint Nicholas the Pilgrim, a young Greek pilgrim who died in Trani in 1094 and was quickly venerated as a saint, and it was built over an older church dedicated to the Virgin. Construction continued through the twelfth and thirteenth centuries in the Romanesque style, using the local Trani stone, a pale limestone. The facade has a rose window, carved arches and animal figures, and it is reached by a double staircase. The main portal once held a bronze door cast by Barisano da Trani in the twelfth century, with panels showing saints and scenes, which is now displayed inside to protect it.

The bell tower, raised on a tall arch, rises about sixty metres. Inside, the upper church has a simple, bright nave with paired columns and a wooden roof, and remains of mosaic floors. Beneath it are two crypts: the Crypt of Saint Nicholas, a forest of marble columns where the saint's relics are kept, and the older Church of Santa Maria, with remains of frescoes. Deeper still lies the ipogeo of San Leucio, an early Christian burial chamber. The apse, facing the sea, is decorated with carved windows.

Trani Cathedral opening hours and the best time to go

The cathedral is open daily, with a break at lunchtime and reduced visiting on Sundays. Summer is hot and busy on the Apulian coast, and the cathedral square is lively on summer evenings. Spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons for exploring. The feast of Saint Nicholas the Pilgrim is celebrated in early May, with processions and a boat procession. The stone glows gold at sunset, and the cathedral is lit at night. Allow about forty-five minutes for the cathedral and crypts, and walk along the harbour afterwards.