Church of Theth

Church of Theth tickets: which one to buy

The Church of Theth is a small Catholic church in the village of Theth, in the Shala valley of the Accursed Mountains, the Albanian Alps, in the Shkodër region of northern Albania, and it is free to see from outside, while the interior may be open at certain times. Its stone walls and steep roof, set in a meadow against a backdrop of towering limestone peaks, make it one of the most photographed images of Albania. Theth is a remote mountain village, part of the Theth National Park, and it is reached by a winding road from Shkodër, now paved, in about two to three hours;

minibuses run from Shkodër in the summer season. Visitors come for hiking, especially the famous trail over the Valbona Pass to Valbona, the Blue Eye pool of Theth, the Grunas waterfall and the lock-in tower, a traditional refuge for men involved in blood feuds. Guesthouses in traditional stone houses offer rooms and home-cooked meals. The church is part of the village's life, and masses are held on some Sundays and feast days. Mobile signal and cash machines are limited in the valley, so bring cash from Shkodër.

Visiting Church of Theth: what to see

Theth has been inhabited for centuries by Catholic Albanian highlanders, who lived by herding and farming under the customary law of the Kanun, and the village kept its traditions in isolation. The church was built in the late nineteenth century, of local stone, with a simple nave and a bell tower, serving the scattered houses of the valley. During the communist period, when religion was banned in Albania from 1967, the church was closed and used for other purposes, and it fell into disrepair. After the fall of communism, the church was restored and returned to worship, and it has become a symbol of the valley's revival as a destination for hikers.

Inside, the church is simple, with a wooden ceiling, a small altar and religious images. The churchyard holds graves of villagers. The surrounding meadows are crossed by footpaths and stone walls, and the peaks of the Accursed Mountains, including Radohima and Arapi, rise above the valley. Many of the traditional stone houses, with their tower-like shape and small windows, were built for defence. The Theth Ethnographic Museum, in an old house, displays tools, costumes and household objects. The valley's river flows past the village, fed by springs and waterfalls.

Church of Theth opening hours and the best time to go

Theth is best visited from June to September, when the roads are open, the guesthouses are running and the hiking trails are free of snow. July and August are the busiest months, and June and September are quieter, with pleasant temperatures. Winter brings heavy snow, and the village is largely cut off. The church is most photogenic in the morning light or at sunset, when the peaks glow. Allow a short time for the church, and at least two nights in Theth for hiking.