St Mary’s Cathedral, Dublin

St Mary's Cathedral, Dublin tickets: which one to buy

St Mary's Pro-Cathedral stands on Marlborough Street in the north inner city of Dublin, Ireland, a street parallel to O'Connell Street, and entry is free, with donations welcome. It is the Catholic cathedral of Dublin, known as a pro-cathedral, a temporary cathedral, because the city's two medieval cathedrals, Christ Church and Saint Patrick's, have belonged to the Church of Ireland since the Reformation. The Pro-Cathedral is a short walk from the Spire, the General Post Office, the Abbey Theatre and the Luas tram stops on O'Connell Street and Marlborough Street.

Visitors combine it with the GPO Witness History museum, the Hugh Lane Gallery, the Dublin Writers Museum, the James Joyce Centre, and the south side sights across the Liffey, including Trinity College and the Book of Kells. The Pro-Cathedral is active, with daily masses, and visitors should be quiet during services. The Sunday Latin mass sung by the Palestrina Choir is one of the city's great musical experiences. The cathedral's classical portico looks surprising in its narrow street, as there is no open square in front of it. Guidebooks and leaflets about the cathedral's history are available near the entrance.

Visiting St Mary's Cathedral, Dublin: what to see

Catholic worship was restricted in Ireland for much of the eighteenth century by the Penal Laws, and after these were relaxed, the Catholics of Dublin decided to build a large church. The foundation stone was laid in 1815, and the Pro-Cathedral was completed in 1825, a few years before Catholic Emancipation. It was built in the Greek Revival style, with a portico of six Doric columns, modelled on the Temple of Theseus in Athens, and a pediment topped by statues of the Virgin, Saint Patrick and Saint Laurence O'Toole, the patron saint of Dublin. The design is traditionally associated with the amateur architect John Sweetman, although its authorship has been debated.

Inside, the nave is flanked by rows of columns, and the sanctuary is crowned by a dome, which lets in light over the high altar, carved in marble with a relief of the Ascension. The church holds a monument to Cardinal Paul Cullen, the first Irish cardinal. The Palestrina Choir was founded in 1903 with the support of Edward Martyn, and the famous tenor John McCormack sang with it as a young man. The cathedral has hosted the funerals and state occasions of many Irish public figures. The side chapels hold altars and statues of saints, and memorial plaques recall benefactors and clergy of the parish. The stained glass windows in the sanctuary add colour to the pale interior.

St Mary's Cathedral, Dublin opening hours and the best time to go

The Pro-Cathedral is open daily, with masses throughout the day. The Palestrina Choir sings the Latin mass on Sunday mornings, except in summer. Dublin is pleasant from May to September, and Saint Patrick's Day on 17 March brings parades and crowds to O'Connell Street nearby. Christmas brings carol services and midnight mass. Weather is changeable all year. Allow about half an hour for the cathedral, and more if you attend the Sunday mass.