Santa Maria e San Donato

Santa Maria e San Donato tickets: which one to buy

The Church of Santa Maria and San Donato stands on a canal in the centre of Murano, the island of glassmakers in the Venetian lagoon, and entry is free. It is one of the oldest churches in the lagoon and a beautiful example of Veneto-Byzantine architecture. Most visitors to Murano come for the glass factories and shops, and they miss the church, which is a few minutes' walk from the Glass Museum.

Vaporetto lines from Venice's Fondamente Nove stop at several points on the island, and the crossing takes about ten minutes. Tours of the lagoon islands often combine Murano with Burano and Torcello, which has its own Byzantine cathedral. The church keeps limited opening hours and closes during services. Modest dress is required. Glass shops along the canal offer demonstrations and sell pieces, but buy from shops with a Murano glass certificate.

Visiting Santa Maria e San Donato: what to see

The church was founded in the seventh century and rebuilt in its present form in the twelfth century. Its most striking feature is the apse facing the canal, decorated with two levels of arcades and colourful brick and marble patterns. Inside, the floor is a marvellous mosaic of coloured marble and glass, dated 1141, showing geometric patterns, animals and birds, including two roosters carrying a fox tied to a pole, a symbol of vigilance triumphing over cunning. The apse is covered with a gold mosaic of the Virgin standing alone, dressed in blue, against a gold background, an image of great simplicity.

In 1125 the relics of Saint Donatus were brought from Cephalonia, and behind the altar hang large bones said to belong to the dragon that the saint killed. The ship's keel roof and the columns of Greek marble complete the interior. The church's campanile stands separately on the square and was built in the twelfth century. Two carved marble panels in the chapel of the baptistery show saints. A painting by Lazzaro Bastiani, of the Virgin and Child with saints and a donor, hangs in the nave. The capitals of the columns were carved in the Byzantine style. The wooden roof, shaped like an upturned ship's hull, is a Venetian feature. The church's early foundation makes it one of the lagoon's oldest places of worship.

Santa Maria e San Donato opening hours and the best time to go

The church is open daily, with a break at lunchtime and restricted hours on Sundays because of services. Murano is busy with tour groups from mid-morning to late afternoon, especially in summer, and early morning is the best time to see the island quietly. The floor mosaic is best seen in daylight. The Glass Museum, in the Palazzo Giustinian nearby, tells the story of Murano glass from ancient times. Glassmaking demonstrations are offered in many furnaces. Allow about twenty minutes for the church, and combine the visit with the Glass Museum and a walk along the Rio dei Vetrai canal. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 4.2 circle Murano and stop at the Museo station, beside the church.