Holy Chapel of the Savior

Holy Chapel of the Savior tickets: which one to buy

The Holy Chapel of the Saviour stands on the Plaza Vazquez de Molina in Ubeda, in the province of Jaen in Andalusia, and it is ticketed, with an audio guide included. Ubeda and its neighbour Baeza, ten kilometres away, are listed together by UNESCO for their Renaissance architecture, and the chapel is the jewel of Ubeda. Most visitors come by car, since public transport is limited, and combine Ubeda with Baeza in a day, or stay overnight in the Parador, a Renaissance palace on the same square.

Walking tours of Ubeda cover the square, the palaces, the old synagogue and the town walls with views over olive groves. The chapel is still privately owned by a foundation. The region produces some of the finest olive oil in Spain, and oil tastings are a popular addition to a visit. Parking is available outside the historic centre, as the old town streets are narrow and partly restricted.

Visiting Holy Chapel of the Savior: what to see

The chapel was commissioned by Francisco de los Cobos, secretary of state to the emperor Charles V, as a funerary chapel for himself and his wife, and it was built from 1536 to 1559 to designs by Diego de Siloe, completed by Andres de Vandelvira, the architect who shaped Renaissance Ubeda. The facade is covered with carved decoration: mythological figures, saints and grotesques surround the portal, with the Transfiguration of Christ above. Inside, the round chapel under a dome is separated from the nave by a wrought iron screen, and the main altarpiece holds a sculpture of the Transfiguration by Alonso Berruguete, although it was damaged in the Spanish Civil War.

The sacristy is decorated with Italian-style carvings. The crypt holds the tombs of the founders. The chapel's treasury contains liturgical objects and textiles from the sixteenth century. The ceiling of the chapel is decorated with painted and carved coffers, and the sacristy's walls and vault are covered with carved figures, medallions and grotesques in the Italian Renaissance manner. The iron screen separating the nave and chapel was made by master Francisco de Villalpando. The chapel has been restored and preserves much of its original colour.

Holy Chapel of the Savior opening hours and the best time to go

The chapel is open daily with a break at lunchtime, and keeps shorter hours in winter. Summer in Jaen is very hot, so plan visits in the morning or late afternoon; spring and autumn are the best seasons. The olive harvest in late autumn and winter fills the surrounding countryside with activity, and olive oil festivals are held in the region.

Holy Week is marked with processions through the old town. The Plaza Vazquez de Molina is lovely in the evening, when the palaces are lit. Allow about forty minutes for the chapel, and walk around the square and to the viewpoint over the valley. The Parador on the same square offers regional food in a Renaissance courtyard and welcomes non-residents for meals.