Church of San Ildefonso, Toledo

Church of San Ildefonso, Toledo tickets: which one to buy

The Jesuit church, dedicated to San Ildefonso, stands at the highest point of the old city of Toledo, and its towers are open to visitors; the ticket covers the church and the climb, and it is part of the Toledo tourist bracelet, which gives access to several monuments and pays for itself if you visit four or more. The towers are the reason to come: the view from the top takes in the cathedral, the Alcazar, the river gorge and the tiled roofs of the whole city, and it is one of the best in Toledo.

Walking tours of the old town usually pass the church and sometimes climb the towers. The steps are steep and narrow in places. The church is a few minutes from the cathedral and the El Greco painting at Santo Tome, so it fits well into a day in the historic centre. Visiting in the morning avoids the crowds of day trippers from Madrid. Children can climb, but pushchairs must be left at the bottom of the tower stairs.

Visiting Church of San Ildefonso, Toledo: what to see

The Jesuits began building the church in 1629 on the site of the house where Saint Ildefonso, a seventh-century archbishop of Toledo, was said to have been born, and it was completed in 1765, shortly before the order was expelled from Spain. It is a large baroque church with a broad two-tower facade of white stone, modelled on the Jesuit churches of Rome, and a spacious interior with a dome and side chapels. The high altar has a large painting of the saint.

Much of the original decoration was lost or removed after the expulsion of the Jesuits, and the interior feels light and restrained compared with the exterior. The main attraction is the climb up the towers, where walkways and viewpoints give a circular panorama of the city. Exhibitions on the history of the Jesuits and on the building are displayed in rooms along the way. From the top, the Tagus can be seen curving around three sides of the old city on its rock.

Church of San Ildefonso, Toledo opening hours and the best time to go

Toledo is busy with day visitors from late morning to late afternoon, especially at weekends. Early morning and late afternoon light are the best for the view from the towers. Summer is very hot, and the climb and the terraces offer little shade, so plan the tower visit for the cooler hours. Spring and autumn are ideal. Corpus Christi, in late spring, brings a great procession through the streets, which are decorated and shaded with awnings.

Holy Week is also important. Winter is cold and sometimes windy on the towers. The church closes earlier in winter. Allow about forty-five minutes for the church and the towers, and stay in Toledo for the evening if you can, when the day visitors have gone. The bracelet ticket is valid for as long as you stay in Toledo, so there is no need to rush the monuments.